The
Pot-in-Pot Trees at Rancho San Carlo Tree Farm can be “harvested” 365
days a year and are growing on our farm all the way up until the day
you buy them...and they continue to grow with minimal interruption when
planted.
Beware of buying trees that have been “rooted
out” in
pots. These are typically nothing more than bare root trees that have
been placed in pots and kept above ground until they develop a minimal
roots
system. Do not be fooled by the low pricing offered at the big
box stores
(Lowe’s, Wal-Mart, Home Depot, etc.). These trees are not acclimated
to our local climate, are subjected to severe care conditions and have
very low survival rates.
The Right Plant
Success begins with the healthiest tree available. New growth is a good
sign that the plant is active. Healthy roots, just as important as
healthy
leaves,
are usually white and fibrous. They should be just beginning to grow
to the edge of the soil in the pot. Our RSC Tree Farm pot-in-pot trees
are
planted in a plastic pot in a very light, rich soil. The pot containing
the tree is then placed inside another pot that has been set permanently
into the ground. Once in the ground, each tree is watered and fertilized
individually. The trees grow on our farm from three to five
years.
Location, Location, Location
Spend time thinking about what you want from a tree before you choose
it, and you’ll be rewarded by the perfect tree for many years.
[See our Selection
Guide for
more information]. Get to know your garden
and yard area. Which part gets full sun and which
is shaded?
Which areas flood and which drains quickly? Consider the size and spread
of the tree. Imagine the tree five, ten or twenty years from now. Will
it be too close to your house or growing up into the power lines? Putting
the right plant in the right locations is never easy, but can be achieved
by learning about the trees you want to plant and studying your garden.
Preparing
Soil for Planting
Few plants thrive in clay, heavy, or poorly drained soils. These soils
are usually not suitable for most plants because they are low in the
oxygen required for root growth. One solution is to incorporate organic
matter
into the soil as deeply as possible and adjust planting depth. Use only
well-rotted barnyard manure, coarse sphagnum peat or thoroughly decomposed
compost. Avoid fine-textured organic matter, such as mountain peat or
sewage sludge. These materials do not “open up” clay soils
but instead decrease pore spaces.
How to Plant a Pot-in-Pot Tree
The most common mistake when planting a tree is digging a hole which
is both too deep and too narrow. Too deep and the roots don’t have
access to sufficient oxygen to ensure proper growth. Too narrow and the
root structure
can’t expand sufficiently to nourish and properly anchor the tree.
Planting is as simple as removing the pot containing the tree (and 100%
of its roots) and placing it in a hole of slightly larger proportions
than the pot that the tree was removed from. This creates very healthy
trees
that grow more quickly when replanted and have far greater odds for survival. We also recommend digging or roto-tilling an area about a foot deep and 3 to 5 times the diameter of the pot to encourage root growth out from the root ball if the soil is compacted (hard to drive a shovel into). Here's a quick video for planting a containerized tree.
Watering
Once your tree is safely planted, it is crucial to water it thoroughly
so that any large air pockets will be filled with soil. All trees need plenty of water to ensure maximum growth. Deep root watering
is recommended weekly especially during the hot summer months (30 minutes to an hour starting in late April through fall). During the summer months pay close attention to the leaves if they start to curl the tree needs water and may require more than one watering per week. New
trees should be watered at least monthly during the winter, if Mother
Nature
is not supplying us with moisture.
Mulching
Apply loose mulch, such as wood chips, over the planted area to a depth
of 3 to 4 inches. This eliminates the need for cultivating and reduces
the frequency of watering. The best mulches for trees are wood chips,
bark chunks or similar materials. Don’t mulch directly next to
the trunk; this could cause the trunk to rot.
Fertilizing
Do not fertilize newly planted trees until the second
growing season.
The trees have been fertilized during the growing seasons at
the farm.
Pruning
Give newly planted trees only minimal pruning. Removing too much
top affects the production of food energy and can result in poor
root development. After planting, prune out broken branches and
those with weak or narrow crotches. Leave some of the lower limbs
and sprouts
even though they will be removed later. These limbs provide the
closest source of food energy for root development.
Protecting Young Trees
Young trees, particularly thin-barked types such as soft maple,
Honeylocust and crabapples, may be sun scalded during the
first year or two after
transplanting. This injury, usually on the southwest sides of trees,
is caused by sudden temperature changes and water loss in the late
winter. Wrap the trunk prior to winter to reduce this problem,
around the end of October. Remove wrap in the springs, Easter
time, to prevent
harboring of insects and diseases beneath the wrap. Use crepe-type
tree wrap. Start at the bottom, overlapping the wrap as it is applied
upward to the first branch. Secure the top end with duct tape or
plant tie ribbon.
Finally
Once your new tree is safely planted, watered, and mulched, there’s
not much left to do but watering and fertilizing each spring.
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